When we booked out tickets the lady printed the itinerary and we noticed that there was only 10 minutes between trains and we had two train changes on the way to Ljubljana. Normally this would be OK but when you have to put the bikes in one carriage and then cart 10 panniers to another carriage it all gets a bit exciting, especially when you consider yesterday's train to get here was 15 minutes late. Sandy and I gave it a 50/50 chance of making it to Ljubljana.
Leaving the hotel early we rode to the Innsbruck train station with about an hour to spare. We double checked the platform and then shock horror I noticed a warning on the itinerary (in German) so I used Google Translate to convert it to English. Not good news, the train from Villach (our last change) was changed to a bus for until the first stop. We both thought there was no way we could get the bikes and all our bags from the train and then out of the station and onto a bus in 10minutes. Ah well what's the worst that can happen, we miss the bus/train, stay the night in Villach and then catch another train or just get on our bikes and ride the rest of the way. Villach wouldnt be so bad as it's almost over the alps.
We load onto the train and settle into our seats, all good so far, for our two hour journey to Salzburg for our first train change. At Salzburg we go over the plan, rehearse the timing and prepare for an operation with military precision. Before the train stopped we were waiting at the door with our bags ready for a quick exit. Out of the train, walking (staggering under the weight of our bags) down to the bike carriage we grab our bikes from the friendly staff and head to the other platform. Down an elevator and then damnit the elevator to get up to the next platform is broken so it's up the stairs with our bikes and bags. I make it to the top with muscles aching and lean my bike against a wall to run back to help Sandy who had just about blown a gasket halfway up. At the top we regroup and headed for the carriage 18 which was where we had to take the bikes according to the tickets. We get to 18 and it looks just like a normal passenger car, bugger what now. We run/walk/wobble our way back down the length of the train trying to find a staff member and are finally pointed to a carriage miles down the train. We throw the bikes on and then had to lug our bags back down to our carriage. We panic and climb on the next closest carriage, at least the train wont leave without us. The only challenge left before us is to walk through what seemed like a thousand people through three carriages carrying all our bags. By the time we got to our seats we were both spent. At least we'll make it to Villach.
When the conductor came to check our tickets he told us about the bus connection in Villach. He then came back later and with relief told us that the bus was not in use and the train was operating normally. Yah we might make it yet!!
We were due into Villach at 1443 and at our connection was at 1453. Things were not looking good when 1443 came and went and we were not at the station. Nevermind, we'll just catch the next train. We had resigned to that fact when we arrived and were sort of relaxed in collecting our bikes when the conductor pointed to the train on the next platform and said 'that's yours!!'. OK mission is back on. We load the bags onto the bikes ready to wheel them down the length of the train when the conductor on the other train opens a big door and motioned for us to pass the bikes up. So it was off with the bags, again and into the train. The Villach train was even later that the one we came in on. We couldnt believe our luck, we were going to make it to Ljubljana.
At Ljubljana we had two minutes to get off the train and retrive our bikes so again we were ready at the door. The conductor saw us and let us into the bike carriage with our bags so that we could have a quick getaway. It was very hot so he them told us to wait in his little staff cabin. Bloody nice bloke.
We knew we had left Austria as soon as the border passed, the orderly, neat and clean was swapped for tussocks of grass, a little graffiti and buildings with a lot more character. I mean this in a really nice way as we both really enjoyed the rustic nature of France and this looked to be right up our alley.
From the Ljubljana station we then used the GPS to find our room. The city is so cool, has a relaxed atmosphere wrapped in a slightly dark undertones. Our Pension (B&B) is beautiful with a garden cafe and nice rooms. We unpacked, threw our bags in the room and then went down for a well earned beer and some dinner.
Our Pension
I would much rather spend a day cycling then swapping trains and carrying panniers.
After dinner we went for a walk (it doesn't get dark until late) into the middle of town and we were shocked at the vibe going on. The cafes on the river with people strolling around eating icecreams were amazing. A little more character in the form of beggers added to the charm. One young girl gave me a sob story of coming here for an exam and not having any bus fare to get home. I tried to explain that we were unemployed travellers with nothing to give, which is technically true.
Anyway it was a very long day but so satisfying to arrive here in Ljubljana. We are very excited to get on the road tomorrow although we have no idea what to expect.
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