I have just spent the past week taking in the delights of the Misty Mountains with my old school friend, Charlie. We have the makings of a "tradition" by meeting up every few years for an extended overnight bushwalking trip. The last one was Cradle Mtn, Tasmania, over 6 years ago which we both agreed that is too long between meets! So yes, for this trip we chose Nth Queensland and Misty Mountains as it is one of only a few lengthy overnight walking tracks in the area.
The Plan: 6 day walk starting from Koolman Creek Trailhead to Gorrell Trainhead (eastern)
Day 1: Sunday 2nd August 2015
Rhyolite Pinnacle Trailhead to Walters Waterhole Camp Site
The day began in sunny Cairns with bestest husband (Gary) driving us to the trailhead some 2.5 hrs away - it would of been 2 hrs if we didn't accidentally take the scenic route! While the intention was to start at Koolmen Creek TH we somehow missed that one and ended up at Rhyolite TH. (It may seem obvious looking at this map we needed to turn off onto Koochumbeerum Rd but I had an older QPWS trail guide which omitted the road completely). None-the-less we found a trailhead and started on our travels in the rather fitting misty rain.
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| Charlie & Me |
As expected, the trail meanders through the lush tropical highland rainforest (approx 900m above sea level), with plenty of trail markers to lead the way. Although cool, we soon warmed up from the somewhat strenuous walk - climbing under or over fallen trees, steep descents and ascents and frequent creek crossings. It was at the first creek crossing, in fact, that we discovered our little hitch-hiking friends, leeches. Although I would like to say we remained cool, calm and collected there was a little bit of girly squealing going on. Despite our attempts to de-leech, it become apparent there were plenty more to replace those we dispatched, so we then just had to accept our travelling companions.
We had lunch on what we thought was the Rhyolite Pinnacle but later questioned this given the description of it in our walking guide book. Where-ever we were we got a nice view of the surrounding mountains and given the openness, a little respite from the leeches.
Despite the guide book's recommendation, that night we opted to camp at Walters Waterhole designated campsite rather than near the waterhole itself, again a few less leeches in the open grassland.
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| Koolmen Creek Track |
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| Although at times the track is a little difficult to make out, there are plenty of trail markers. |
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| Walters Waterhole Campsite |
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| Post leech removal. Gary said we should have got a photo of the leeches on us but the instinct to just "get them off" kicked in first! |
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| I choose to ignore my travel companions for the day, although looking at my trousers there was definitely a party going on. Surprisingly there were only a few attached, although later I counted some 30 bites suggesting many had dropped off after having their "fill". |
Day 2: Monday 3rd August 2015
Walters Waterhole Camp Site to Cochable Creek (Djilgarrin Trail)
Devil is in the detail.
Revision of the track notes the previous night we discovered we should have checked the height of Koolman Creek with the Rangers before starting our trip. Our track notes are a compilation from 3 different sources, with each author clearly stating this fact. According to our sources, the day entailed an hour's walking along a ridge, followed by 3 hours of descending - with some very steep sections (more on that later) into the valley of Koolman Creek and providing you can cross the creek it's just over an hour to the next campsite. If you can't cross the creek it's a slow hard slog to return to Walters Waterhole camp.
Although we have had a reasonably wet, dry season, the weather leading up to start of the walk had been somewhat dry and sunny plus I did have a conversation with the Ranger beforehand and while I didn't specifically ask about Koolman Creek, he didn't specifically mention it either, so that should be ok, right? All I can say is while sliding down the track on my arse, I was praying that the creek was crossable otherwise I was setting off my PLB and getting helicoptered out of there. Suffice to say, Charlie and I both breathed a sigh of relief when finally reached the creek and easily walked across to the rocky island to enjoy a well earned lunch.
A quick recap on the journey to Koolman Creek, yes the track is very steep in some sections (I wasn't exaggerating about the sliding on my bottom), we had to stop and search for the trail marker a few times, there is plenty of wait-a-while, we both got done by stinging trees and there is no water between Walter's Waterhole and Koolman Creek - we ran out with half an hour walk to reach Koolman Creek. Oh & no leeches.
After lunch we realised we may have been too hasty in our assessment of the crossable creek, as we discovered from the island to the other side was a little deeper. However we navigated across and although we had a wet bum we soon dried out with our walk in the sun. Before heading to the camp we took a short detour to Elizabeth Grant falls which was well worth a look.
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| Day 2 Djilgarrin Trail |
Djilgarrin Trail - Descent Section - This is steep although the picture doesn't show it.
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| One of many we saw on the trip, all red belly black. |
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| Koolman Creek |
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| Elizabeth Grant Falls |
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Cochable Creek - Our favourite camp
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Day 3: Tuesday 4th August 2015
Cochable Creek to Hinson Creek Camp (Cannabullen Trail)
I specifically packed the machete for this section. When I spoke to a Ranger a month prior, I was told all the tracks had recent maintenance except Cannabullen Trail as it had been too wet to access the track. So we anticipated a slow day. However we were pleasantly surprised by a lovely trail, following the creek with numerous small creek crossings and the machete safely tucked away. What was even more special, was walking through a patch of rainforest that escaped the clutches of the loggers, these wonderful big trees were a sight to see.
Lunch was at the half way point, Carter Creek and as one guide estimated 6 hours walking for the day, we thought we would have a lazy stroll onto the next campsite. Not to be. Not long after our departure it became increasingly difficult to move at pace. There were a number of fallen trees to negotiate and that infernal wait-a-while, oh and few stinging trees thrown in the mix (yes Charlie got done again). It was evident someone had recently cut a path through the obstacles but the wait-a-while seems to grow quickly to fill the voids. At one point we found ourselves in a bramble patch so dense I questioned whether we were on the track at all, and just when we were about to turn around I spotted a blue bit of flagging tape being slowly engulfed by the brambles. So it was a slow old afternoon of weaving, cutting and cursing.
It was on this piece of trail we encounter the only other walkers for the trip, 4 european lads heading in the opposite direction. I detected the trail didn't improve, given their delight and approval of seeing me with the machete. We soon discovered they had started out that morning from Cardwell Range Trailhead and were heading to Cochable Creek, 28km's for the day! Given their schedule they soon moved on with a few departing words from us in regards to the stinging trees. Their quick pace was an inspiration to us both and with the vegetation thinning we soon arrived at our camp for the night. A rinse in the creek at the end of the day was wonderful!
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| Start of Cannabullen Track from Cochable Creek |
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| Creek Crossing |
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| A little steep section. Where was the rope on day 2? |
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| Big Tree |
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| Bramble Patch. Yes that line in the centre is the track. |
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| Hinson Creek. Bath for the day |
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| Hinson Creek Campsite. |
Day 4: Wednesday 5th August 2015
Hinson Creek Camp to South Johnston Camping Area
Today was simply about getting from A to B. We needed to get from one trailhead to another and the only way was to walk 22.5km along the Sutties Gap Rd/Maple Creek 4wd track to the South Johnstone Camping Area. So walk we did. It was pleasant enough, with a few picturesque creeks and wait-a-while/bramble free. There were a few challenging uphills along the way, so that when we reached our destination we had certainly earned our dinner. South Johnstone is a nice enough spot, pity they recently blue metalled the camp ground (it used to be grass).
Oh and today we saw our first feral pig.
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| The 4wd track |
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| South Johnstone near Campground |
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| South Johnstone Campground |
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| Leech bites from Day 1. At times they can be incredibly itchy!!!!!!!! |
Day 5: Thursday 6th August 2015
South Johnston Camping Area to Downey Creek
We set out this day with great expectations as one of our guide books described the Gorrell Track as his favourite Misty Mountain trail and Downey Creek in his top 5 rivers in Nth Qld!
The track is an old logging road and now a shared walking/mountain bike trail. And yes, while it is always a pleasure walking through rainforest and the king ferns were impressive we found this track not as interesting as the first 3 days. However Downey Creek was fantastic and after a short walk in the morning to reach our destination we spent the afternoon lazing on the rocks in between refreshing dips in the river.
That night, tucked up in the tent we did have a little incident. As per usual we were in the tent by 6.30pm as the temperature drops quite quickly and a warm sleeping bag is the place to be! There we were having a quiet conversation when Charlie quickly sits upright in a bit of a panic. What seems like an age, I find my head torch and cast some light on the situation, and to discover quite a lot of blood seeping from Charlie's neck and a bit fat leech (it had been flicked off in the commotion) on the floor of the tent. To say the least it caused quite a stir and a thorough search of the tent for any other lurking blood suckers.
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| Gorrell Track |
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| Downey Creek lunch spot. |
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| Downey Creek |
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| Downey Creek |
Day 6: Friday 7th August 2015
Downey Creek to Gorrell Trailhead (eastern)
Today was much like yesterday, old logging roads dotted with the occasional creek. We made good time to McNamee Creek where we had lunch before setting off to end our journey at the Gorrell Trailhead (eastern). Bestest hubby picked us up again and we made a detour via the Mena Creek pub to have a celebratory beer before heading back to Cairns.
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| McNamee Creek |
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| End of our adventure! |
All in all it was a wonderful 6 days in the bush with good company and no modern day distractions. While the first 3 days were strenuous and challenging, they certainly were the highlight of the trip.
If anyone is inspired themselves we have a few recommendations.
- Check Koolman Creek water level before leaving!
- Walk Djilgarrin Trail downhill
- We never had any March flies although I have car camped at Sth Johnstone and been driven out by them, I think this was mid-late wet season.
- Take secateurs
- Leech repellent - While many people offered advice (Rid, Dettol mixed with Bushmans, vegemite & water) there are numerous creek crossings that would wash most of this off. I used Rid which was ok except for Day 1.
- Leech Itching - Vicks apparently relieves itching but so would antihistamine.
- Leech in Eyes - I have heard this can happen and I believe those little saline rinses in1st Aid kits works.
- Leech removal - we burnt them off but again I think salt does the trick
- Take gaffer tape to remove stinging tree hairs
- Wear long sleeved shirt and long pants
- White tailed rats - All the guides recommend hanging food as the native rats chew through anything to get to food.
