Thursday 29 April 2010 Le Roc St Andre

Thursday 29 April 2010 Le Roc St Andre (rest day)

Woke up this morning after having a sleep-in.  When I sleep in it generally means I must be pretty tired.  I lay in my snug sleeping bag and didnt want to get out of bed so thoughts of a rest day started sneaking into my mind.  After about half and hour I got dressed and entered the morning, it was cold, not the UK cold but less then 12degC I guess.  Nothing my beanie couldnt handle.

For breakfast we wandered up to the Patisserie and bought a baguette for lunch and some yummys for breakfast.  At about 10am I was keen to have my first French coffee so again we made the short walk in the village centre.  The bar we had a beer at last night becomes the place to have your morning coffee so we ordered two Cafe au lait (coffee with milk) and they were very good. While sipping our coffees Sandy noticed dark clouds approaching so after buying some supplies at the store we wandered back to the tent.  Not long after closing up the tent it started to rain.  We lay in our sleeping bags reading our books.  Sandy bought a French magazine to practice her new found lingual talents.

Having a day off means that it is now unlikely that we'll meet up with Tom and Anja again which is a shame as they were great company.

We read our books and waited for the rain to clear.  Around lunch time we decided to treat ourselves to Crepes as these are a Beton specilaility so it was off to the bar/cafe/brasserie/creperie.  Wow, what a meal!!  We'd never seen crepes served like that.  We both had a savory crepe for main and then sweet ones for dessert.  Two hours later we rolled back down the hill to our tent for a little nap :)

The lady at the bar was an excellent French teacher (even though she is from Romania) and helped us along very nicely.  Naturally we had to go back in the evening for a couple of drinks and she was still there, we're starting to feel like locals.....and I could live with that.  Le Roc St Andre is not a tourist town.  It has some sort of wood factory down the road a bit that provides industry and a few shops in town so we are enjoying been close to the 'real' France.

Wednesday 28 April Rohan to Le Roc-Saint-André

Wednesday 28 Appril Rohan to Le Roc-Saint-André 45km

We packed up from our first French rough camp (just set up the tent on the side of the canal) and headed off.  It's amazing here, we're sitting on the side of the canal path eating our dinner and the locals ride past and say Bon Appetit.  They seem a very laid back mob these French.

We rode off and followed the canal, which has now turned into the Oust river and we are going downstream, combine that with a bitumen surface and we have a pretty easy ride.  It's amazing to think that you can ride right across France off road so you can ride side-by-side without worrying about traffic.

Stopped in a village that had a supermarket and bought some supplies and also pulled in and bought some pastries.....I have never tasted anything like it.  If I wasnt on a cycle tour there would be a whole lot more of me by the time I finish with this country :)

Oh, the village we stopped at had a bit of a castle

After lunch, which I wont go into as it was the usual French fare, we rode on at about 2:30pm we came across a campground that was open.  I was a bit tired so I declared an end to today's riding for Sandy and I.  Tom and Anja are riding on a bit and we will catch them up tomorrow.  They are more hardcore than us and dont want to pay for camping.  Me, I like my showers every few days.

Tuesday 27 April 2010 Gourec to Rohan

Tuesday 27 April 2010 Gourec to Rohan 65km

Had a yummy breakfast at the B&B and left by way of the canal again.

From the canal path

Life is hard on the canal path :)

Once down the track a bit there is a system of lakes and the cycle path got a bit crazy with the signs sending us on a bit of a goose chase.  Translating the French signs and finding the path we chose to be walking only saw us have a giggle.  After wasting an hour and not making much ground (and being no where near the canal) we consulted the GPS and made a beeline for the canal cutting off quite a few km.  The short-cut took us through some lovely villages and right under a group of wind power generator thingys.


We rode on and still no sight of Tom and Anja but as we had made so many detours from the canal I wasnt too surprised.  I was just a bit worried we may not see them again without proper goodbyes as they have been good company.

The best part of the day was seeing an otter!!!  He was on the surface and dived when he saw us coming.  He swam up the canal a bit but hid in the banks before we could get a good look at him again.  Earlier on we saw a beaver like creature that Tom says is an introduced animal that the French try to remove.

We had a rest by a lock

I'd never seen a floating digger before

As the afternoon progressed we rode into Rohan and past a nice campground but alas it, like all the other campgrounds, was closed until early May.  So it was fill up the water bottles and ride on looking for a nice piece of ground to pitch the tent.  We started to get a bit nervous as the fields/woods/grass on the sides of the canal after Rohan were very wet and boggy, not ideal camping ground.  It all worked out when we spotted a little cleared area, it even has it's own little clear stream right next to it.

We expected to see Tom and Anja on the road but didnt see them all day.  We didnt know if they were in front of us or behind but as I write this who should we see riding down the path but Tom and Anja.

Every encounter with the French we have had has been so friendly, lots of Bonjour's, Bon Appetit's and Bonsoir's all very nice.

Monday 26th 2010 Huelgoat to Gouarec

Monday 26th 2010 Huelgoat to Gouarec 64km

We always love a day's ride that starts with a downhill! There is not much to mention for today as we followed the road to Carhaix, stopped to stock up the pantry and then made our way to the Brest-Nantes canal path.  Once on the canal path it was a case of admiring the beautiful setting and enjoying the peace and quiet.

Lunch is probably worth a mention - true French fare with baguette, camembert & salami - decadent but wonderfully scrumptious, in fact so good we had that for dinner too.

When it came to calling it a day we had best intentions to camp but unfortunately the campground didn't open for another 5 days, instead we found a B&B in Gouarec.  Actually we didn't find it - we went to the Information Centre, who pointed us to the shop across the road, who then knew gave us directions to the B&B - By this stage you might think my french is really coming along but alas they were all English including the B&B owner!

The view from our room.

Tom and Anja chose to find a free place to camp so they rode on and we planned to meet up in the morning somewhere.

At this stage our intention is to head to Nantes via the canal path, a few days ride.  It's possible then to pick up a path along the Loire however while the canals are beautiful we noticed today that we aren't passing through the little villages and really 'seeing' France so come Nantes we might get back on the back roads.

Sunday 25 April 2010 Roscoff to near Huelgoat

Sunday 25 April 2010 Roscoff to near Huelgoat 64km

We woke wonderfully refreshed, after a peaceful sleep in our dinky 2 berth cabin.

Gary as usual was up early, in fact probably earlier than the norm as he has been one excited bunny for the whole ferry trip - (For those that don't know, he's quite passionate about boats and the ocean). Anyway we mosied downstairs for a spot of breakfast and admired the ocean view till our arrival.

Just before we docked we got talking to our newfound cycle friends, Tom and Anja, and missed the call to go down to the vehicle area, when we finally did get there our lonely bikes were the only "vehicles" in the hold. Oops! From there we made our way into Roscoff to pick up some bread for lunch - my French can't be that bad as I managed to walk out with a baguette!

After Tom, who speaks French (yay), got some directions from a local we then headed out of Roscoff. Oh and I should mention our new mantra for the road is "Stick to right, give way to the left". Gary has been the slowest to catch on to riding on the right hand side of the road with the rest of us having to call out to him a few times when we turn a corner or start off.

The plan is to make our way to Carhaix where we then get on the Brest-Nantes Canal and head for Nantes.

The days riding was quite picturesque, riding along the river emptied by the tide, rolling meadows and mossy woodlands. The weather started off with a little drizzle but lovely and sunny in the afternoon. The terrain was gentle undulations and some climbing but gentle in that you just sat in the seat spun the legs and take in the view. We stopped at a stream (in Australia I would have called it a creek) and used the water filter to fill up our bottles.

Tom said this was the done thing as French tap water terrible. We have since found out that Tom must be pretty picky as everyone else drinks the tap waster :)

The days riding made a wonderful change from the steep hills of Cornwall and Devon. As we were chatting with Tom & Anya a bit while we rode along we found ourselves at a campsite before we knew it. As nobody was around we took the advice from the notice on the door and set up camp as we pleased - near the babbling brook thank you! A little later we noticed reception was opened so Gary & I, armed with our phrase book, headed on over to settle our bill. Fortunately we were second in the queue which gave me some time to rehearse what I needed to say. When it came to our turn I managed to blurt out something - I don't know if it sounded French but it certainly wasn't English. Gary was impressed at least, especially when I came out with the line that we were cycling. The guy behind the counter was mainly amused and after a few moments of making me suffer he turned the conversation to English. None the less I was quite proud of myself!

After dinner we poured over the Europe map with Tom and Anya, picked up some pointers and started shaping some idea of where we go. Tom and Anja are on a worldwild endeavour with New Zealand their plan.

Where are we?

Updated 16 May 2010

I'm not going to update this anymore now that I use the 'Location' feature on each post.


View Where are we? in a larger map

Saturday 24 April Plymouth to Roscoff

Saturday 24 April Plymouth to Roscoff (ferry ride)

I woke up this morning at about 5am and quickly got dressed and went out to the deck to have a look at the sun coming up over the ocean.  Stunning morning and the view from the ferry quite moving, I love being at sea.

We ran around yesterday getting some last minute supplies.  I love the planning we are doing; the day before we leave the UK we buy a map of Europe and one of Brittany (France).  Sandy and I then start to think about what general direction we'd like to head and then surf the Net looking for routes that are cycle friendly (flat).  So far we know we land in Roscoff and then we're going to try to get onto the Eurovelo Route 6 which goes east all the way to Romania.  After about of hour with the maps and the laptop we have a sort of plan and feel confident.

I also lashed out and bought some descent walking shoes as we actually do a fair amount of walking around when we are not on the bikes.

Once we had a map and knew (sort of) where we were going we booked ferry tickets.  Then we settled into more research and then packing ready to ride to the ferry.  We set of for the ferry with plenty of time and were herded through the lanes with all the cars and buses and waited in line.  After a little while another cycling couple arrived all loaded up like us.  They are on the 3rd day of their trip and are heading to New Zealand.  They were surprised that they had met other international cyclists so soon into their journey.  It was refreshing to see some other poor buggers carrying the same amount of crap equipment as us.  We were told to walk our bikes into the wide mouth of the ship (with the cars) and then lean them up against a wall and a very nice man then tied them to a railing so they dont fall over.  After that we took our boarding passes and found our cabin and dropped off our gear.

A familiarisation walk was next and we found the cinema, restaurant, bar, games room, lifts, decks....this ship has it all.  Then we bought what I think may be our last English Ale for a while and sat down to enjoy the moment.  This is a very nice way to travel, sure airlines are fast but this is comfortable.  Not long after that as I think this may have been the latest night we've had for weeks (gasp 11pm) we returned to our cabin and went to sleep.  At this stage the ship had only just left the dock.

I woke up in the night and could feel the movement of the ship on the sea, a very gentle rocking as there is fine weather outside (not that I could see that from our cabin with no porthole).

New 'Location' feature added

Hi Everyone,

I've added a 'LOCATION' tag at the bottom of each post. I will set this to the location at the end of each day.

Cheers
Gary

Friday 23 April 2010 Milton Abbot to Plymouth

Friday 23 April 2010 Milton Abbot to Plymouth 40km

Great night at the Woodovis Caravan Park

Today we find the route 27 which we know goes to Plymouth.  It's actually one route I would come back and do from start to finish as we rode a portion of it on the north coast and it was great.  We travelled some quiet back roads to Tavistock and saw the route 27 signs so no more navigation, just follow the signs.

As we left Tavistock things got hillier, how unusual :)  The roads got steeper and steeper but today we felt strong (Sandy did have a little walk).  Not long after Tavistock we met two ladies on their horses who we chatted to as the horses were a bit afraid of the bikes so we let them come up and have a sniff.  We got chatting (as you do in this country) and they said "You've got some hills up ahead"  I sighed and thought 'we've just ridden some beauties'  Anyway we left them and held the brakes down a very steep descent and at the bottom the sign pointed to the left and through a gate.

Whoa!!!  Where's the track go?!?!

Once through the gate we lost the nice bitumen but not long after that we see this......

That set of switch backs is at the bottom of the bloody (sorry for the expletive Mums) steep gully and it looked ferocious.   We immediately said "They're kidding arent they!!".  Once at the bottom and saw that they were indeed NOT kidding we decided we needed a chat, and ponder the situation as the thought of trying to push 45kg worth of touring bikes up that did not impress.  There was a man fishing in the river not far away and he approached us and told us of a path that follows the river that will get us to the main road and then back onto route 27.  "It's a bit rocky" he said "Rocky is OK, switch backs not so much" I replied. So off we headed.

Once of the best bike paths I've ridden on :)  Keeping your balance and your feet dry was tricky.

The track improved after we climbed out of the river bed.  We rode for a way on a nice forest path that flowed the river until we came to a car park.  We read some information signs and worked out that the local path should met with with the 27 via a track called Drakes Trail.  So off we went.

It was not long after that we met the biggest climb of the day to get back up to the rail line which is been converted to bike trail.  One section had us ferrying the bikes up one at a time as it was just too steep to push on our own.  After that we were back on normal route 27 and riding along beautiful paths and laneways all the way into Plymouth.  In all we walked the bikes for just over an hour today!!!

Work was currently underway to build a cycle bridge over that gully thus removing the need to descend into and then climb out of the river.  We must come back in about 6 months and do this again.

Once we were on the rail trail proper it was all easy until we got to Dartmoor National Park (or at least a corner of it).  The track then turned back into a mountain bikers dream and a touring cyclists nightmare but it was all fun.  After that rough part we then, again, got back on the rail trail for the descent into Plymouth.  huge fun just coasting for about 5km, all downhill.

Once in Plymouth I was pretty impressed....there are lots of boats in Plymouth ;)

It was so nice we had to have a beer to celebrate.

And checked out the sea baths.  There were two mad buggers swimming.  The water is so clear it is tempting to get in.................NOT!!!!!!!!!!!

We are now in our hostel and planning tomorrows shopping trip for maps of France and then booking the ferry to get to Roscoff.  Excited yet sad to be leaving England yet we still dont know our path through France and which countries we'd like to see beyond that, it's great having a plan :)

Thursday 22 April 2010 Bude to Milton Abbot

Thursday 22 April 2010 Bude to Milton Abbot 50km

Back on the bike and feeling pretty good.  Only had one 'really' steep hill today all the others, and there was no flat piece of road, were less than 14%.

Not much to report, we left Bude, rode on route 3 for a bit then left that to make our way to Launceston and then a bit past that depending on how we were feeling.  We felt OK so made it to a caravan park just past Milton Abbot which gives us less of a ride tomorrow to get into Plymouth.

Sandy and I will be sad to leave England and we would really like to see more but we better make our way to France.

Ah well not much to report today in fact we only took one photo which is hardly worth posting.

Riding up a hill that was just like the Kuranda Range....but cooler

Update:  We were cooking dinner last night when the manager of the caravan park came over and asked if we'd mind if she took our photo for their next brochure......we're going to be famous!!!!

Had a great nights sleep and woke up to only a slight frost on the tent :)  Cooked yummy porridge (a little bit of cinnamon is the key) and had two cups of tea.  Taking it easy this morning as we cant check into the hostel in Plymouth before 3pm and it's only 40km (and countless hill probably) away.

Wednesday 21 April 2010 Rest Day (Port Isaac, Padstow)

Wednesday 21 April 2010 Rest Day (Port Isaac, Padstow)

Today we had another day off as we both wanted to see Port Isaac (of Doc Martin fame) and neither of us wanted to ride there after seeing the map and chatting to other cyclists who described the hills a 'murderous' so we hired a car and took a drive.

Side note:  With the closure of UK airports the sky has been really blue.  What is also amazing is the weather has been perfect.  We walked to get the car this morning and it was 9degC....and we felt warm, blood must be thickening :)

Now on with the day:
We headed down and not really sure what the speed limits are here we just followed other cars.  Thought we be hiring some exotic European brand car but no we get a Toyota Yaris...boring!!! Cant complain only cost us 35 quid.

Got to Port Isaac and were blown away.  This place is just beautiful, it's my favourite so far.

The Cornwall coast, pity about the haze.

Our approach to Port Isaac from a coastal path.  The wall to Sandy's right is right on the top of the cliff

Those 'Doc Martin' fans will recognise his office

You just park on the beach

It's still a working port

Another shot of Doc Martin's house (it's actually a private residence)

More Port Isaac

Naturally with all that 'driving' we need another Cream Tea :)

After Port Isaac we drove to Rock and then caught a ferry to Padstow which is another historic and very pretty fishing village that has seriously turned to the tourists.

Padstow lock

Had my first British fish and chips, very nice

Another view of Padstow

We caught the ferry back to Rock and then drove home all rested and psyched up to ride down to Plymouth in the next two days. Stocked up on snacks and now having a cup of tea in our room.

Side note:  The planes are back so the long white clouds are starting to reappear.

Monday 19 April 2010 Brandis Corner to Bude 30km

Monday 19 April 2010 Brandis Corner to Bude

Over our pints yesterday we both agreed we were due for a day off and thankfully we had at least one rational thought and that if we were to make any grand changes to our plan it should be after a few days rest.

So about our day off, as there isn't much in Brandis Corner we thought we'd have an easy ride to Bude and spend a couple of days by the seaside.  We took a bus down to Boscastle and Tintagel to have a look around and generally took it easy.

Bude has a sea-lock that separates the canal from the sea

The old post office at Boscastle

A ruined 12th century castle at Tintagel (King Arthur was supposedly born here??)

The river runs right through Boscastle

Couldnt get these two to get out of the shot

The river runs to these sea walls that protect fishing boats

the fishing boats

How unusual, we're eating again :)