Our first off-road trip in the Landy

After getting the new suspension and snorkel fitted to the Landy.....

She sits nice and level now

.....we thought we'd better go on a shake-down trip to see how she handles a bit of rough stuff.  Not too rough as we are still getting used to her,  but rough enough.

Thursday 21th August 2010

We waited around the house until afer lunch as Telstra we supposed to fix our phone line.  We gave up and left for Kuranda at about 2pm.  A lazy drive up the range and then into the caravan park to pitch the tent.  We had stayed here before when we cycled around the tablelands last year.

The camp at Kuranda

After setting up camp we went for walk along the railway track into Kuranda itself to have a look around but everything we shut as it was 4:30pm so we made our way back to camp.

In the morning, after waking everyone up making tea using the multi-fuel burner for the Trangia which roars like a jumbo jet, we packed up and found the start of Black Mountain Road.  Black Mountain Road goes through the rainforest towards Mossman and is a dirt track but pretty easy going although a few places where a bit slippery as they were wet.  No challenge for the Landy yet.

Doesn't she look good

A wild horse...did I really need to tell you it was a horse?

A happy Landy owner

The road then hit the bitumen and had a nice view while winding our way back down the Rex Range to the coast.

We had a quick look at Mossman and then made our way to Daintree Village.

Had a cup of tea before finding the ferry to cross the Daintree River

Even though Cape Tribulation is spectacular we were a little disappointed that it has been developed so much as it has lost a bit of it's remoteness.

It wasnt all bad :)

When you leave Cape Trib you lose the bitumen and hit The Bloomfield Track, it's good dirt but had some of the steepest sections of road I've ever seen.

I was thankful this section was concrete

We had to use low range on a few of the hills they were that steep.  

The photo does not do the grade justice, low range just to maintain engine braking.

The Bloomfield Track was pretty amazing and throw in a few creek crossing, very steep climbs and descents, spectacular coastal views and lush green rainforest it was amazing.  So good that we forgot to take any photos....ooops.

We hit Ayton and set up camp at the caravan park.

In the morning the road improved as we headed to The Lions Den Hotel.

Stopped here for a driver change and looked over the side of the road to see this creek.....

.....very beautiful.

The Lions Den Hotel

From here we found bitumen again on our way to Cooktown.

We stopped and had a quick look at Black Mountain

On to Cooktown where we found our favourite Queensland town yet.  It's a sleepy little coastal village with an outback feel.

There was a market on so we bought lunch and some fruit

Had the opportunity to trade 'up' to a better Landy but Sandy wasnt so keen.

From Cooktown the original plan was to head back to Cairns via the Mulligan Highway (all bitumen) and that would be the end of our trip but while looking at our Cape York guide book I spied the Battle Camp track that heads to Old Laura through Lakefield National Park.  It's described as a rough 4WD road so that's where we headed.

Very beautiful stuff

Unfortunately someone in government decided that the road needed to be upgraded so it was mostly very wide and fairly smooth.  It took a little of the adventure out of it so one in the national park we explored some of the campgrounds.

Soft sand tracks were no problem to the Landy.  

Spotted some brolgas next to the track

A dodgy track led us through this grove of palms

and to this water hole.  It was here that we saw a log in the water and then when we turned back the log had moved.......no swimming in these parts.

We headed back to the main track and then onto Old Laura homestead.

From here we turned North to check out 6 mile camp.  It was a cool track in and was a beautiful spot when we have marked for future expeditions.

We had a cup of tea at 6 mile camp

Sandy was not so pleased to see the snake skin

The 6 mile camp track was a bit of a test for the Landy with some soft sand and shape drop offs.  The traction control even engaged once.  The Landy has been the best 4WD I've driven in the bush.  Big statement especially coming from a man who has owned seven LandCruisers.

Back on the main road we headed south thinking we might camp at Laura.  We got to Laura and decided against that.  Those that have been to Laura will understand.  We continued on to Lakeland which was a little oasis in the dry bushland.  A quick pitch of the tent and then to the pub for a couple of beers and a counter meal.

Headed home this morning and the trip from Lakeland to Mt Carbine then onto Mt Molloy goes through some of the best looking outback scenery around.

We stopped at the Palmer River Roadhouse for breakfast and chatted to the owner for ages about stuff and she showed us another trip that she said was terrific and very rough 4WDing so we will plan that one in the near future.

As for the Defender,  well it absolutely shone.  Sure it's not as comfy on the highway as our 100 series LandCruiser but in the bush it is superb.

A fantastic trip and just a taste of the opportunities available to us in North Queensland and we are already planning the big trip up the Cape for next year.

View Cooktown Trip 12-15 Aug 2010 in a larger map

New adventures await

Look what I've gone and bought :)

2003 Land Rover Defender X-Treme

Please excuse my sister's finger in this shot

I bought it from a bloke in Brisbane so we had to fly down and drive it back.  These two shots were taken at my sister Tracey's in Buderim.

Naturally the weather was terrible for the first days drive.   

But then all came good for us to sample some of the beautiful Queensland coast

Taken at Emu Park near Yeppoon

We weren't far into the trip when we discovered that there is a Land Rover code;  other Defender drivers always give a wave.  I think we have unwittingly joined a secret brotherhood

Thursday 8 July 2010 Rome to Cairns

Thursday 8 July 2010 Rome to Cairns (flight)

Phase Four

Well no one needs to be reminded how torturous a flight from Europe to Australia is.  The long and short of it; we flew Rome-Dubai-Brisbane-Cairns, over 20 hours flying and some time spent in airports and very little sleep.  But we are now here in sunny overcast Cairns, homeless, jobless but thankfully have family who kindly feed us and give us a roof over our head till we get on our feet.

Phase four complete 

Thank you to everyone that has provided comments & emails while on our travels, it was great to have that contact with home.  I guess all there is left to say is ‘watch this space’ for future adventures!

4-6 July 2010 Ancona to Rome

4-6 July 2010 Ancona to Rome (train)

Phase two

Come 7.30am the bikes, bags and ourselves were on the train waiting patiently for departure, some 50 minutes away - anyone would think we weren’t keen on Ancona!  Technically that’s not fair, as I’m sure they have a nice city centre and we just happened to see it’s ‘not so good’ side.

Four hours later we arrived in Rome after seeing some lovely scenery on the way.  Again we had a hotel close to the train station and again it was a pretty shitty part of town. 

However the hotel (4 star) was nice enough.  Rome was a baking 35c so we grabbed a quick bite to eat and spent the afternoon in our room.

Phase two complete

Rome

Phase three (getting bikes on the plane)

Today we woke up with the mission of finding two bike boxes to pack our bikes.  We spent the good part of two hours trying to source boxes through our airline, airport, other airlines to no avail.  Plan B. With the help of the hotel staff we sourced a bike shop that sold bike cartons.  The bike shop I worked in we gave them away so I was suspicious of what they had exactly and didn’t get my hopes up.  So with GPS in hand we set off on our two km journey (it’s was going to be a right royal pain getting them back to hotel).  We found the bike shop easy enough but no cartons, surprise surprise.  However they gave us the address of another shop, another 2km away and no number to call.  Hmmm.  We set off again, in the 35 degree heat in the general direction of the next bike shop.  No more than 200m down the track we walked past the door of Mail Boxes Etc, a Pack ‘n’ Send equivalent.  While they didn’t have bike boxes they had some big boxes that we decided we could fashion into a box of sorts.  Big enough to be a pain in the bum to walk the 2 km back to the hotel.  The afternoon was then spent packing the bikes.

Day 2 in Rome and we thought we’d better catch some of the sights.  We were due to fly out at 10pm that day so we had the day to fill in.  I don’t think Gary could of cared less but not being impressed with Rome so far I thought we’d better check out down town.

So off we set, in the 35 degree heat and wandered the streets of Rome with 5 million other tourists.  I’m glad to say downtown Rome was an improvement to our area but a combination of the tourists and traffic neither of us are keen to return.

Eventually we moseyed back to the hotel and waited for our chariot.  The taxi arrived on time, we loaded the bikes and sat back for a white knuckled ride to the airport.  At the airport we got the boxes ‘secure wrapped’ for reinforcement and proceeded to check in.  Bikes loaded, all within our weight limit.

phase three complete 

Saturday 3 July 2010 Zadar to Ancona

Saturday 3 July 2010 Zadar to Ancona (ferry)

Our post-sail drinks last night with Ivan and Melita and Dragan (the Manager of the charter company) were great and we planned to catch up with Ivan and Melita for lunch tomorrow as our ferry to Ancona leaves at 10pm.  Dragan gave us the use of the boat to stay on for the whole day as it wasn't booked out.  It was very nice of him as it meant we had a base for the day and somewhere to store our bags.

It would have been very easy to take the boat for another week but we both new that it’s time to go home.  So we woke up in the morning with heavy hearts to get on the Internet and start booking; the ferry to Ancona, the train to Rome and then the flights to Australia.  There was mild panic when we looked at the ferry timetable and found that on Saturday’s it leaves at 1200 so we only had 3 hours to get organised.  We were so close to staying a couple more days and going on the next ferry on Monday but we knew it was time.  We were so upset we couldn't have lunch with Ivan and Melita.  

So it was ‘mad rush’ time.  I raced around the harbour on my bike to buy the ferry tickets, only to find that I needed my passport to buy the tickets so I raced back but then realised that it didn't matter as we could buy the ticket when we boarded?  Never mind I needed the exercise.  Ivan was on the boat when I got back so the three of us went and had a coffee. 

After coffee and goodbyes we made our way to the ferry and there we began the multi-day journey home, with this leg nicknamed “phase one”.  Six hours later we docked at Ancona  and got another stamp in our passport - yay!  We had pre-booked a hotel, opposite the train station but the price of the convenience was a dodgy neighbourhood.  No sooner had we arrived there was a melee outside a cafe two doors down, we decided then and there to get the earliest train out of Ancona!  Once we were settled we ventured out to find some dinner, unfortunately we had our blinkers on and turned right out of the door only to find a little deli with dried out pizza after a 20 minute walk.  Had we turned left there was a respectable restaurant not 100 metres down the road - I then found myself humming Alannis song once again.

Phase one complete

Friday 2 July 2010 Sali to Zadar

Friday 2 July 2010 Sali to Zadar 14nm

The morning dawned and we felt great after a good night sleep, only one or two mozzies.  We went up to the bar for a coffee after breakfast.  It was like a mirror image of last night except that the beer and wine had been replaced with coffee.  People talking, greeting each other with handshakes.

Last night while drinking our Gin Ivan told us about the Croatian equivliant, Pelinkovac.  So after our coffee the 'Skipper' orders us three P&Ts (you drink it with Tonic like Gin)!!!  It was 9am!!!  We both resisted, for about 5 seconds and had just one before heading out.  This Croatian lifestyle was getting better and better :)

It was with very heavy hearts we left Sali.  Sali will hold a place in my heart.

Back on the boat the wind had already started so just as we left the port we raised un-furled the sails and sailed all the way to Zadar.  After our lunch stop we then had to beat to windward with a reefed headsail all the way back to Zadar, excellent sailing.  When Ivan suggested I start the motor and have one last close look at the Zadar foreshore I said “One more tack offshore, the wind is stronger out there”

At the entrance Ivan took over the helm just in case the police boat should do a check and went to the fuel dock to fill up, 26 litres for the four days, not bad.

After tying up the boat we then went for a last drink with the skipper who turned into a dear friend.  We had some more Pelinkovac and Tonic.  Ivan's wife Melita, came down and had a drink with us as well.  We had a great time this week and it turned out to be the holiday to end our adventure.  We would have loved to take the boat for another week but we both know it's time to start the journey home.  Sad but happy we slept one more night on the boat.  Before we needed to catch the ferry to Ancona, Italy.

We would like to give a huge plug to Dragan and his team at Torete Yacht Charters http://www.torete.hr/ in Zadar.  If you ever get the chance, look them up.

If you need to best skipper than ask for Ivan Mokos.  Ivan only does this part-time now as he has his own business but if your lucky he might be available.

Thursday 1 July 2010 Vela Panitule to Sali

Thursday 1 July 2010 Vela Panitule to Sali 15nm

The mozzies continued to feast through the night and the three of us arose from our berths very very tired.  It was a pity as it was frustrating to be surrounded by such beautiful scenery and not really enjoy it.  We had a bit of a late morning and then motored back into the islands and turned back north to be closer to Zadar to drop the boat off on Friday.

As we approached our lunchtime anchorage we were slowly drifting closer in a little bay checking depth and making sure we had enough swinging room when another yacht behind us dropped their sails, turned on the motor and then hit full speed to race ahead of us and drop the anchor.  It was a demonstration of very un-seamanlike behaviour.  We still found room to drop the hook but the sailing Gods found fit to snag their anchor in all sorts of wire and rope as they went to leave.  They grabbed a knife to cut it free and promptly dropped that.....we had a quiet chuckle.  It proved to me, once more, that you get 'dickheads' everywhere you go.  Despite that we still went for a refreshing swim and ate a yummy lunch.

We passed back through the narrow passage and then headed toward Sali.  We had ample opportunity to raise the sails once the wind picked up but we all agreed that we were too tired from our lack of sleep so we headed straight to Sali.  This turned out to be a good thing as Sali turned out to be the most beautiful little village of them all.  There was an atmosphere that typified what we saw in Croatia, village buildings, a quaint little bar, people out enjoying the afternoon, fishing boats.

After berthing and securing the boat we 'followed procedure' and headed to the bar.  Who were we to disobey the skipper?? We had told Ivan about the lack of Gin on our trip since England and he found us some Bombay Gin....yah, it had been a while since we had a descent Gin.  After a few of those on an empty stomach we headed over to a pizza restaurant and ate some yummy pizza.

The entrance to Sali

Heading back to the boat despite tiredness trying to overcome us we sat and listened to the sound of this community.  All around the little port people were sitting and talking, having quiet drinks and teaching me a thing or two about the pace life should be lived. We could easily have never left Sali.