Saturday 24 April Plymouth to Roscoff

Saturday 24 April Plymouth to Roscoff (ferry ride)

I woke up this morning at about 5am and quickly got dressed and went out to the deck to have a look at the sun coming up over the ocean.  Stunning morning and the view from the ferry quite moving, I love being at sea.

We ran around yesterday getting some last minute supplies.  I love the planning we are doing; the day before we leave the UK we buy a map of Europe and one of Brittany (France).  Sandy and I then start to think about what general direction we'd like to head and then surf the Net looking for routes that are cycle friendly (flat).  So far we know we land in Roscoff and then we're going to try to get onto the Eurovelo Route 6 which goes east all the way to Romania.  After about of hour with the maps and the laptop we have a sort of plan and feel confident.

I also lashed out and bought some descent walking shoes as we actually do a fair amount of walking around when we are not on the bikes.

Once we had a map and knew (sort of) where we were going we booked ferry tickets.  Then we settled into more research and then packing ready to ride to the ferry.  We set of for the ferry with plenty of time and were herded through the lanes with all the cars and buses and waited in line.  After a little while another cycling couple arrived all loaded up like us.  They are on the 3rd day of their trip and are heading to New Zealand.  They were surprised that they had met other international cyclists so soon into their journey.  It was refreshing to see some other poor buggers carrying the same amount of crap equipment as us.  We were told to walk our bikes into the wide mouth of the ship (with the cars) and then lean them up against a wall and a very nice man then tied them to a railing so they dont fall over.  After that we took our boarding passes and found our cabin and dropped off our gear.

A familiarisation walk was next and we found the cinema, restaurant, bar, games room, lifts, decks....this ship has it all.  Then we bought what I think may be our last English Ale for a while and sat down to enjoy the moment.  This is a very nice way to travel, sure airlines are fast but this is comfortable.  Not long after that as I think this may have been the latest night we've had for weeks (gasp 11pm) we returned to our cabin and went to sleep.  At this stage the ship had only just left the dock.

I woke up in the night and could feel the movement of the ship on the sea, a very gentle rocking as there is fine weather outside (not that I could see that from our cabin with no porthole).

Friday 23 April 2010 Milton Abbot to Plymouth

Friday 23 April 2010 Milton Abbot to Plymouth 40km

Great night at the Woodovis Caravan Park

Today we find the route 27 which we know goes to Plymouth.  It's actually one route I would come back and do from start to finish as we rode a portion of it on the north coast and it was great.  We travelled some quiet back roads to Tavistock and saw the route 27 signs so no more navigation, just follow the signs.

As we left Tavistock things got hillier, how unusual :)  The roads got steeper and steeper but today we felt strong (Sandy did have a little walk).  Not long after Tavistock we met two ladies on their horses who we chatted to as the horses were a bit afraid of the bikes so we let them come up and have a sniff.  We got chatting (as you do in this country) and they said "You've got some hills up ahead"  I sighed and thought 'we've just ridden some beauties'  Anyway we left them and held the brakes down a very steep descent and at the bottom the sign pointed to the left and through a gate.

Whoa!!!  Where's the track go?!?!

Once through the gate we lost the nice bitumen but not long after that we see this......

That set of switch backs is at the bottom of the bloody (sorry for the expletive Mums) steep gully and it looked ferocious.   We immediately said "They're kidding arent they!!".  Once at the bottom and saw that they were indeed NOT kidding we decided we needed a chat, and ponder the situation as the thought of trying to push 45kg worth of touring bikes up that did not impress.  There was a man fishing in the river not far away and he approached us and told us of a path that follows the river that will get us to the main road and then back onto route 27.  "It's a bit rocky" he said "Rocky is OK, switch backs not so much" I replied. So off we headed.

Once of the best bike paths I've ridden on :)  Keeping your balance and your feet dry was tricky.

The track improved after we climbed out of the river bed.  We rode for a way on a nice forest path that flowed the river until we came to a car park.  We read some information signs and worked out that the local path should met with with the 27 via a track called Drakes Trail.  So off we went.

It was not long after that we met the biggest climb of the day to get back up to the rail line which is been converted to bike trail.  One section had us ferrying the bikes up one at a time as it was just too steep to push on our own.  After that we were back on normal route 27 and riding along beautiful paths and laneways all the way into Plymouth.  In all we walked the bikes for just over an hour today!!!

Work was currently underway to build a cycle bridge over that gully thus removing the need to descend into and then climb out of the river.  We must come back in about 6 months and do this again.

Once we were on the rail trail proper it was all easy until we got to Dartmoor National Park (or at least a corner of it).  The track then turned back into a mountain bikers dream and a touring cyclists nightmare but it was all fun.  After that rough part we then, again, got back on the rail trail for the descent into Plymouth.  huge fun just coasting for about 5km, all downhill.

Once in Plymouth I was pretty impressed....there are lots of boats in Plymouth ;)

It was so nice we had to have a beer to celebrate.

And checked out the sea baths.  There were two mad buggers swimming.  The water is so clear it is tempting to get in.................NOT!!!!!!!!!!!

We are now in our hostel and planning tomorrows shopping trip for maps of France and then booking the ferry to get to Roscoff.  Excited yet sad to be leaving England yet we still dont know our path through France and which countries we'd like to see beyond that, it's great having a plan :)

Thursday 22 April 2010 Bude to Milton Abbot

Thursday 22 April 2010 Bude to Milton Abbot 50km

Back on the bike and feeling pretty good.  Only had one 'really' steep hill today all the others, and there was no flat piece of road, were less than 14%.

Not much to report, we left Bude, rode on route 3 for a bit then left that to make our way to Launceston and then a bit past that depending on how we were feeling.  We felt OK so made it to a caravan park just past Milton Abbot which gives us less of a ride tomorrow to get into Plymouth.

Sandy and I will be sad to leave England and we would really like to see more but we better make our way to France.

Ah well not much to report today in fact we only took one photo which is hardly worth posting.

Riding up a hill that was just like the Kuranda Range....but cooler

Update:  We were cooking dinner last night when the manager of the caravan park came over and asked if we'd mind if she took our photo for their next brochure......we're going to be famous!!!!

Had a great nights sleep and woke up to only a slight frost on the tent :)  Cooked yummy porridge (a little bit of cinnamon is the key) and had two cups of tea.  Taking it easy this morning as we cant check into the hostel in Plymouth before 3pm and it's only 40km (and countless hill probably) away.

Wednesday 21 April 2010 Rest Day (Port Isaac, Padstow)

Wednesday 21 April 2010 Rest Day (Port Isaac, Padstow)

Today we had another day off as we both wanted to see Port Isaac (of Doc Martin fame) and neither of us wanted to ride there after seeing the map and chatting to other cyclists who described the hills a 'murderous' so we hired a car and took a drive.

Side note:  With the closure of UK airports the sky has been really blue.  What is also amazing is the weather has been perfect.  We walked to get the car this morning and it was 9degC....and we felt warm, blood must be thickening :)

Now on with the day:
We headed down and not really sure what the speed limits are here we just followed other cars.  Thought we be hiring some exotic European brand car but no we get a Toyota Yaris...boring!!! Cant complain only cost us 35 quid.

Got to Port Isaac and were blown away.  This place is just beautiful, it's my favourite so far.

The Cornwall coast, pity about the haze.

Our approach to Port Isaac from a coastal path.  The wall to Sandy's right is right on the top of the cliff

Those 'Doc Martin' fans will recognise his office

You just park on the beach

It's still a working port

Another shot of Doc Martin's house (it's actually a private residence)

More Port Isaac

Naturally with all that 'driving' we need another Cream Tea :)

After Port Isaac we drove to Rock and then caught a ferry to Padstow which is another historic and very pretty fishing village that has seriously turned to the tourists.

Padstow lock

Had my first British fish and chips, very nice

Another view of Padstow

We caught the ferry back to Rock and then drove home all rested and psyched up to ride down to Plymouth in the next two days. Stocked up on snacks and now having a cup of tea in our room.

Side note:  The planes are back so the long white clouds are starting to reappear.

Monday 19 April 2010 Brandis Corner to Bude 30km

Monday 19 April 2010 Brandis Corner to Bude

Over our pints yesterday we both agreed we were due for a day off and thankfully we had at least one rational thought and that if we were to make any grand changes to our plan it should be after a few days rest.

So about our day off, as there isn't much in Brandis Corner we thought we'd have an easy ride to Bude and spend a couple of days by the seaside.  We took a bus down to Boscastle and Tintagel to have a look around and generally took it easy.

Bude has a sea-lock that separates the canal from the sea

The old post office at Boscastle

A ruined 12th century castle at Tintagel (King Arthur was supposedly born here??)

The river runs right through Boscastle

Couldnt get these two to get out of the shot

The river runs to these sea walls that protect fishing boats

the fishing boats

How unusual, we're eating again :)

Sunday 18 April 2010 Smyton Manor Caravan Park (Just Sth of Torrington) to Brandis Corner

Sunday 18 April 2010 Smyton Manor Caravan Park (Just Sth of Torrington) to Brandis Corner 32km

Today was a psychological battle against the "why are we cycling" demons, hence the low kilometereage.

The day started like any other despite the layer of ice encrusted on our tent, but we both rose with exhuberance to meet the day's cycling.  In fact we were in really good spirits having spent a lovely evening with the locals in the park bar.
With plenty of porridge under our belt we made our way back onto the Tarka Trail - an old railway line, so no traffic and easy gradient, this lasted for some 10km and then we were back on the laneways and we were both still smiling at this point.

We made our way to Petrockstowe with the intention to stock up our pantry only to discover there was no local store however a helpful morning jogger gladly informed us we could find one in the next village, Hatherleigh.  No problem, just a few miles on in our direction. However some minutes later we found ourselves yet again crawling up a hill, Gary managed to ride all the way, I thought bugger it, I'm pushing.  Looking back I think this was the turning point for the day, the seed of negativity had been planted.  Also at this stage we are both a bit on the peckish side but short on tempting snacks - that's why we were heading to Hatherleigh! Not far to go so we continued on.   Unfortunately riding with no fuel in the tank brings on all sorts of psychological mind games.  For instance you know you are hungry when.....
1. All you can think about is stuffing one mars bar after another in your gob - and I'm not a fan of mars bars.
2. Every day objects start resembling mars bars
3. Every second word is an expletive
4. Your cycling partner looks at you like your some rabid dog
5. You think cycle touring sucks and you would quite happily trade your bike with the next passing landrover

Eventually we arrived and departed Hatherleigh, having consumed some 5 custard filled doughnuts, 2 cheese sticks and a few pieces of chocolate for good measure, plus stocked up the pantry. We also made the executive decision to head to Holsworthy (11 miles), sticking to the A-road, avoiding the nasty hills.  But despite our full bellies, and the cycle friendly terrain we were not happy tourers - Gary continued to entertain Landrover thoughts and I was making a silent pact with myself never to exercise again.  But instead of doing the right thing and trying to encourage one another into a more positive frame of mind, we began dicussing how much we could get for the bikes.
As luck would have it we came across a pub (some miles short of Holsworthy) serving up a Sunday carvery and what should happen next but we're in the beer garden with a pint and a scrumptious roast before us. Turns out the Bickford Arms also does B&B, so with little encouragment from the bar lady we were booked in for the night and on our second pint.

The beginning of the end.

Saturday 17 April Batten Fleming to Torrington

Saturday 17 April Batten Fleming to Torrington 56km

We had a great days cycling today, a few uphills but mostly down on our way back to sea level at Barnstaple.  At Barnstaple we bought a couple of maps, ate a cream tea.  Now here's an interesting thing we have noticed;  In Australia we call Tea with Scones a Devonshire Tea but now that we are in Devonshire it's called a Cream Tea.......I bet that's made your day :)

Barnstaple, on the river

Anyway lovely ride from Barnstaple on an old railway line so flat was the order of the afternoon.  No grades steeper than an old steam train could manage....or a cycle tourist.


We rode on the banks of the river and as it was Saturday the cycle path was packed.  I made the classic mistake of riding behind a group of casual riders and they were sitting just a little slow so I pulled out and made my move to overtake.  Damn it but there wasnt a headwind but as all good bunch riders know, once you've made the move your committed so I had to put in and make a break.  This was all at the good touring speed of 21kph.

Next we came to Instow and across the river is Appledore

Appledor

We then turned inland and headed to Great Torrington.  We didnt actually go into Torrington as the path skirted around it but we saw a caravan park symbol on the map so we headed toward that.

The St George flag in the distance

Rode through a couple of old railway tunnels

An example of the path as we went inland

We rode along this wonderful path with a stream running beside it in a dark pine forest when we saw a sign leading down a path in the woods to Smythan Manor Touring Park.  As it looked like a bit of a scramble to get through Sandy went while I mined the bikes.  She came back and thumbs up, we get another cheap night but this time there's a bonus....they have a bar.

The path to the caravan park

The caravan park appeared as we climbed out of the forest

Went the the bar and had a great night with the local, absolutely laughed all night.  I have now leanrt my lesson that when one is camping in cold weather one shouldnt drink ale.  Four freezing trips to the toilet in the night.

Woke up this morning to the tent covered in ice and the water in the bottles had ice in them.  Crunched my way around on the frost to prepare a cup of tea and wait for the sun to come up and thaw us out.

Friday 16 April 2010 Waterrow to Batten Fleming

Friday 16 April 2010 Waterrow to Batten Fleming 56km

From Waterrow we decided to stick to the 'B' roads as the laneways are much steeper and by steep I mean 15+% in places. We were going to meet up with route 3 at Bampton but after a quick snack we decided to stay on the 'B' agin to Dulverton.

All I remember of Bampton :)

At Dulverton things went seriously downhill er that should be uphill.  We climbed (walked) from 40m to 266m on a road signposted as 1:5, very hard. After that we were grinding our way up another hill (at least we could ride this one) and saw a road off to the side that was signed as 33%, we were pretty glad route 3 did not take that path.

From Dulverton we made our way toward Exmoor National Park and route 3 goes across the very top of it, so we found out.



We reached at height of 485m but a total of 990m ascent for the day.

485m not that high but the grades

An Exmoor Pony

Just after the highest point we came across another cycle tourist who was a local from Taunton and was on a three day ride travlleing light and staying in B&Bs.  he was a top bloke and had just had a pint for lunch at a pub not far away...now that's cycle touring.  It was funny when he said that he'd just had a pint because we were in the middle of the moor and could see for miles and there was no village?

After we crested the highest point we could see no more major hills but a lot of downhill in the direction we were travelling, yah!!!  Sure we dropped 200m fairly quickly and didnt need to pedal much but then we went across a little valley and up the other side it was back to 20% grade and more walking the bikes.  Some of these hills were like Timor Leste but not as long thankfully.

After we had done about 50km we started to think about where we were going to stay and we hadn't passed a village with a pub or B&B for ages so I did a search on the GPS for accommodation and 4km away it said there was a caravan park.  It wasnt on the map so I got the phone out and it wasnt on the iPhone app we got that specifically finds caravan parks (it's OK we only paid $2).  Anyway I got their phone number from Google and rang them and sure enough they dont do campers but make exceptions for cyclists.  Off we trundled and came to a nice spot on a hill and the bloke put us in a very sheltered spot, perfect.

Our camp at Greenacres Caravan Park

Thursday 15 April 2010 Bridgwater to Waterrow

Thursday 15 April 2010 Bridgwater to Waterrow 54km

While the bikes were getting seen to yesterday we spent the day in Bath checking out the sites.  We did the tour of the Roman Baths and was impressed.  We caought the train from Bridgwater to Bath and back again in the afternoon.  When we picked the bikes up they didnt charge us for the forks, chainrings or any labour......very good service from SJS Cycles.

Today's riding conditions:
Wind: tailwind :)
Road gradient:  flat until just before the end
Road surface: firm
Traffic: none to speak of
Pretty good day for cycling really.


So today we set off after breakfast and were following the National Cycle Network (NCN) route 3 which runs from Bristol to Lands End.  We picked it up in Bridgwater and it followed the tow path all the way to Taunton.

The tow paths are just fantastic, no cars, riding by the canal and we beautiful scenery.

Found our way through Taunton which is a bigger town.  We dont actually have the map for NCN route 3, we only have our little road atlas which is missing quite a bit of detail but the routes are signposted pretty well and we've only had to do a double check once or twice. After Taunton we left the canal and were back on to the trusty laneways.  Despite my initial fear of meeting traffic on a single lane road with hedges right to the edge we have had no bother and they are actually my preference rather than the bigger roads.

Road past a couple of dairy farms spreading the cow manure onto the fields......what a stink!!  Certianly upped the speed to get past them.

After about 40km we thought we better start thinking about where we were going to spend the night and today we thought we might finally give camping a go.  The problem with that is there are so few places to pitch a tent.  Anyway we road into a little village called Appely and saw a sign for a Tea House so we pulled in and had a cuppa.  Our fancy iPhone app that finds camp grounds told us there was one at Waterrow which is about 6km off the route 3 but at least we could camp.  It's funny but B&Bs are nice but lack a bit of privacy, well it feels that way.

After our cuppa we rang the Waterrow Caravan Park to double check that it existed and not some figment of my iPhone's imagination.  Sure enough someone answered the phone so we set off.  Not far down the road I got our first real flat in England.

Just after we left route 3 and headed directly toward Waterrow and we hit the first hill of the day, we rose 150m in less than 1km and had to push for a section of it.  not very sociable if you ask me.

We road on and came to Waterrow which is very pretty with a stream running right through it.

The caravan park is gorgeous and has a walk trail which we visited.  Our little camp site is set up and we've just cooked dinner in the Trangia.

The temperature is dropping as we reach for our beanies.  The sky is perfectly clear so I think we might have a cold night.