Friday 2 July 2010 Sali to Zadar

Friday 2 July 2010 Sali to Zadar 14nm

The morning dawned and we felt great after a good night sleep, only one or two mozzies.  We went up to the bar for a coffee after breakfast.  It was like a mirror image of last night except that the beer and wine had been replaced with coffee.  People talking, greeting each other with handshakes.

Last night while drinking our Gin Ivan told us about the Croatian equivliant, Pelinkovac.  So after our coffee the 'Skipper' orders us three P&Ts (you drink it with Tonic like Gin)!!!  It was 9am!!!  We both resisted, for about 5 seconds and had just one before heading out.  This Croatian lifestyle was getting better and better :)

It was with very heavy hearts we left Sali.  Sali will hold a place in my heart.

Back on the boat the wind had already started so just as we left the port we raised un-furled the sails and sailed all the way to Zadar.  After our lunch stop we then had to beat to windward with a reefed headsail all the way back to Zadar, excellent sailing.  When Ivan suggested I start the motor and have one last close look at the Zadar foreshore I said “One more tack offshore, the wind is stronger out there”

At the entrance Ivan took over the helm just in case the police boat should do a check and went to the fuel dock to fill up, 26 litres for the four days, not bad.

After tying up the boat we then went for a last drink with the skipper who turned into a dear friend.  We had some more Pelinkovac and Tonic.  Ivan's wife Melita, came down and had a drink with us as well.  We had a great time this week and it turned out to be the holiday to end our adventure.  We would have loved to take the boat for another week but we both know it's time to start the journey home.  Sad but happy we slept one more night on the boat.  Before we needed to catch the ferry to Ancona, Italy.

We would like to give a huge plug to Dragan and his team at Torete Yacht Charters http://www.torete.hr/ in Zadar.  If you ever get the chance, look them up.

If you need to best skipper than ask for Ivan Mokos.  Ivan only does this part-time now as he has his own business but if your lucky he might be available.

Thursday 1 July 2010 Vela Panitule to Sali

Thursday 1 July 2010 Vela Panitule to Sali 15nm

The mozzies continued to feast through the night and the three of us arose from our berths very very tired.  It was a pity as it was frustrating to be surrounded by such beautiful scenery and not really enjoy it.  We had a bit of a late morning and then motored back into the islands and turned back north to be closer to Zadar to drop the boat off on Friday.

As we approached our lunchtime anchorage we were slowly drifting closer in a little bay checking depth and making sure we had enough swinging room when another yacht behind us dropped their sails, turned on the motor and then hit full speed to race ahead of us and drop the anchor.  It was a demonstration of very un-seamanlike behaviour.  We still found room to drop the hook but the sailing Gods found fit to snag their anchor in all sorts of wire and rope as they went to leave.  They grabbed a knife to cut it free and promptly dropped that.....we had a quiet chuckle.  It proved to me, once more, that you get 'dickheads' everywhere you go.  Despite that we still went for a refreshing swim and ate a yummy lunch.

We passed back through the narrow passage and then headed toward Sali.  We had ample opportunity to raise the sails once the wind picked up but we all agreed that we were too tired from our lack of sleep so we headed straight to Sali.  This turned out to be a good thing as Sali turned out to be the most beautiful little village of them all.  There was an atmosphere that typified what we saw in Croatia, village buildings, a quaint little bar, people out enjoying the afternoon, fishing boats.

After berthing and securing the boat we 'followed procedure' and headed to the bar.  Who were we to disobey the skipper?? We had told Ivan about the lack of Gin on our trip since England and he found us some Bombay Gin....yah, it had been a while since we had a descent Gin.  After a few of those on an empty stomach we headed over to a pizza restaurant and ate some yummy pizza.

The entrance to Sali

Heading back to the boat despite tiredness trying to overcome us we sat and listened to the sound of this community.  All around the little port people were sitting and talking, having quiet drinks and teaching me a thing or two about the pace life should be lived. We could easily have never left Sali.

Wednesday 30 June 2010 Iž to Vela Panitule

Wednesday 30 June 2010 Iž to Vela Panitule 25nm

It is nice to sleep on a boat when there is just a little movement to rock you to sleep.  We awoke to another beautiful day and witnessed the marina come to life as the people rose from there berths.  We ate some breakfast and then went for a walk to buy some bread.  It appeared that everyone else had the same idea.  

Sandy waiting for bread

We then readied the boat and motored out of the little harbour.  We are experiencing usual summer weather systems at the moment, calm in the morning 

Calm seas in the morning

and then a good sailing North West wind in the afternoon.  We motored our way south and toward Kornati National Park.  Kornati is a group of islands that had been denuded of trees in years past and are now a spectacular wonder of Croatia.  The rock formations are amazing and the photos don't show the scale of the surroundings.  

Not too deep here!!

On the way to Kornati we had to pass through a narrow channel, with water so clear you can see the bottom as we glided through.  Ivan has been such good value to have on board,  he has become a good friend.  His local knowledge earned from sailing in these waters from his childhood is incredible.  We witnessed a bit of poor seamanship when as we just entered the channel another boat coming the other way entered as well so it was a bloody tight squeeze and the depth sounder showed 20cm under the keel.

We made our way past a big lighthouse that stood on the entrance to the Adriatic Sea proper. 

Still motoring

Old ruins on the hilltop

As we made our way to the open sea we were expecting a little wind as it was now about 11am but it was not to be for another hour or so, so we kept motoring.  I tried to convince Ivan that we could duck over to Italy to have a coffee but he said the boat wasn't registered for offshore.  It's only about 80nm after all :)

As it was now lunchtime and we were hungry we headed back into the islands to find an anchorage to have a swim and make lunch.  We found a spot and set the anchor in a nice bay, put the ladder down and dived off the boat, water temp 24degC.....very nice.

During our swim the wind picked up so we headed off down wind 

Heading downwind

just so we could come back to windward to get some real sailing in.  The wind picked up nicely 10-14 knots and we had a great time.  Actually when we went to reef the headsail the clam cleat that secures the furling line wouldn't hold so we had some fun trying to jury rig that.  It all worked out and we had some great sailing. The wind had picked up to about 15knts so we were having too much fun and forgot to take any pictures of the action.

The marina we are staying in is on a small island, Vela Panitule, with floating pontoons to secure the boats to.

  Again, once we had completed the motions of securing the boat, Ivan said “You know the procedure”, so off we went for a couple of celebratory drinks.  It is a small marina consisting of a bar/restaurant, corner store and the marine amenities.  However there is also another restaurant across the small stretch of water on another island (Piškera) which is famous for the quality of their fish as they catch all their own.  

  

While having pre-dinner drinks Ivan gave them a call and arranged for them to pick us up in their dinghy.  Before settling down for dinner we took a quiet stroll around the surrounds that included a deserted restaurant, a church once used as a hospital in WWII and the distant tinkle of sheep bells .  

The church

The sign tells about it's use as a wartime hospital

The restaurant

The meal was superb as was the wine which is why we didn't get to write any blog that night.  

We finished at the restaurant and they taxied us back to our boat in the dinghy.  On the pier an English fellow asked us about the restaurant and dinghy service and I think he was a little disappointed to hear how good it was as he ate at the only other restaurant – again we were thankful to have insider knowledge!  After our indulgence we fell into our bunks planning for a good nights sleep.  The mosquitoes had other ideas!!  It was a pleasant but balmy night which meant we had to leave the hatches open and as they hadn't any screens the mozzies had a feast of their own at our expense.

Tuesday 29 June 2010 Zadar to Iž

Tuesday 29 June 2010 Zadar to Iž 10nm

Yes, that's 10 nautical miles :)  That's right we sailed today and we both agree it's a hell of a lot easier than cycling.  Ivan (our skipper), Sandy and I left the marina at about 1030 and motored (no wind) until we got to another island and then we anchored, went swimming from the boat in usual Croatian water, crystal clear, and then had a spot of lunch on board.

We anchored in 7m of water and you could see the shadow of the boat on the bottom.  We donned our newly purchased snorkel and goggles and swam.  I could see that the anchor had dragged when we tried to set it, the water was so beautiful.

After lunch the wind had picked up so we unfurled the sails and headed toward Iž.
The sailing was downwind on a broad reach in about 7-10knots so very relaxing.

Finally sailing

The autopilot is broken so we took turns on the helm

We got to the marina early as it's small and popular and it's 'first come, first served' for berths.  Ivan's local knowledge helped us again as we have seen one big boat come in than turn around and leave again.

Our boat

Iž is a lovely little fishing village that has a small/basic marina right in amongst the fishing boats and little cafe/bars.

Ivan and Sandy

Ivan, our very cool skipper, has been a great tour guide and shown us so much on the way.  Even if I had a Croatian boat license it would pay to hire a skipper for the first couple of days anyway just for the local knowledge.

Sandy cooked spag bog for dinner and we are now sitting in the cockpit watching the sun go down.

Monday 28 June 2010 Zadar (a new adventure begins)

Monday 28 June 2010 Zadar

Sandy and I arrived in Zadar with heavy hearts, we had such a nice time in Mali Losinj and this ferry ride seemed like the start of the journey home.  We talked about chartering a yacht in Split but that involved a bus ride, another hotel and more packing and repacking.  I think we are getting tired of living out of a suitcase, or pannier in this case.

After much discussion we just couldnt decide what we wanted to do, bus to Split, ferry to Italy to make our way to England or ferry to Italy to fly straight home.  Neither of us knew what was the right decision and after wandering around Zadar I said “Stuff it, lets just go home”.  We headed to the ferry office to by tickets and Sandy just knew it was the wrong thing to do and asked “Can we just have a cup of tea before we buy the tickets?”  I agreed and just at that moment Sandy motioned across the other side of the port at the line of nice yachts and said “They look like charter yachts?”  “Sure do” I replied and then I pulled out the iPhone and Googled “Zadar Yacht Charter” and the search results showed a map of exactly where we were standing and a number of charter companies on the other side of the water.  “Lets go and have a look” Sandy suggested.

To get to the other side of the water you can walk 500m to the footbridge or catch a rowboat skilfully rowed by an old man the 50m to the pier on the other side.  We took the rowboat.  This man has oarmanship (???) to be proud of.  He effortlessly glided us, and four others, across the water and only accepted $2.50 for the two of us.

We then walked to the first yacht charter office we saw Torete Yacht Charters and spoke to the man.  Next thing you know were onboard a Bavaria 34 having a look around and discussing rates.  As I dont have a valid Croatian license we had to ask to take a skipper but were actually really glad of that as he's a top bloke and will teach us all sorts of good things about sailing in Croatia.  On Friday if were having fun I'm going to sit my boat license exam and then extend the charter for another week without the skipper.  That is if I remember all my lights and shapes etc.

So we've gone to the shops and bought provisions, unpacked out gear and settled down to a lazy afternoon on the boat before we head out tomorrow.  Life is grand again.

This reminds me a great chat I had with Kevin (English bloke who was cycling with his equally top wife Mary who we met in France) where he quoted from Wind in the Willows;

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."

We do have a small confession to make, we both didn't really have suitable boatie type shoes so we went and bought ourselves some 'Crocs'.  Yes I know they are the ugliest creations ever and in the past I have always bagged people who wear them but I've seen so many yachties in them that they must be OK.  As it turns out they're bloody comfy :)

Sold our boat

What!!!! you may ask, why did you do that?!?!?!

Well to be honest we love sailing but we also love cycling and the two activities collided often enough to stop us getting value from both of them.

The good news is this is how we funded the purchase of the new touring bikes

Turnbull Bay

As part of my Inshore Skippers course I went on an overnight sail to Turn

bull Bay, 32nm from Darwin. The next group of students were going on the 8th May and Jenny (runs the course and owns Zanibar the Farr 38 training yacht) suggested that anyone with a boat can tag along. Judith (co-student) and her hubby just bought a brand new Catalina 309 and asked if Sandy and I would like to join her on the Turnbull trip. Naturally we said yes. Funny thing was Judith's hubby was in France and Judith was not too familiar with her new boat, this sort of put me in charge a bit and it was a great learning experience.

Morning at Turnbull Bay looking at Zanibar.

We left the marina at 1900 (7pm to you landlubbers) and as there was no breeze we motored out toward Charles Point. At Charles Point we turn south toward Bynoe Harbour. When we were about 3 nm from Charles Point a bit of breeze picked up so We decided that we should be sailing and not listening to a diesel hum. So imagine this: New boat, to me and the owner, it has in-mast furling so the main sail just rolls out of the mast all very leisurely. This is when my nerves start unwinding, as the sail is almost out it jams and we can not get it out or roll it back in. This makes me a bit stressed as the next day is a forecast Coastal Wind Warning and I've got 9/10th of the mainsail up unable to reduce it!!!!. Anyway a bit of tacking to put wind pressure on the sail eventually freed it up and we unrolled all main and head sails and had a delightful sail down to Turnbull.

Judith cooking breakfast in the morning

The sail back in the morning was fabulous, a close reach in about 10 knots, if you know anything about sailing you know that that is a happy place in any boat but on a brand new $200K yacht it's not too shabby.

Sandy and I enjoying the conditions

Now I mentioned that there was a coastal wind warning due the next day so I knew what to expect when we hit Charles POint and came out of the lee of the land. Essentially the wind picked up to 20-25knots coming directly from Darwin (where we wanted to go). So the seas built and we had to bash our way on an offshore tack to get room to try and make Darwin on the next tack. Lots of fun and we reduced sail twice with spray coming over the whole boat as we pushed into the short but step swell.

Charles Point before the conditions got worse.

As we continued once we got on the close hauled point of sail, Zanibar, which is a race boat, took off and we couldnt keep up. We ended up rolling up the headsail completely and starting the motor so we could point a little higher as we all were very tired and didnt want to be getting back to Darwin in the dark.

A huge weekend and a great time was had by all!!!

Gary's first Inshore Skippers practical session

I enrolled in the Inshore Skipper Certificate course. The course is a sailing based course accredited with Yachting Australia and run by the Winter School of Sailing here in Darwin. It's an intensive 10 week course with theory session one to three times per week and four practical session on John and Jenny's Farr 38.

Last Sunday we hit the harbour for our navigation practical and what a nice day it was. Overcast so not too hot but enough breeze to get some decent sailing in.

The aim of today was to plot a course to sail allowing for the tidal current. For those who dont know Darwin harbou

r we have BIG tides and of course Sunday was a spring tide so we had plenty of current to allow for. During my turn at plotting the chart tidal data said we would have 2.5 knots of tide pushing us out of the harbour and the wind was on the port quarter. Naturally as soon as I gave the helmsman/person the course

the wind change and we could hold my course so they then gave me what they could steer and I then determined where that would take us and a point at which we would need to gybe to get to our mark 10 nautical miles away. It wasnt long and the helmsman gave me more bad news on the course they could steer as the wind shifted.

Little did I know that they guys up on deck had a GPS had having quite a good chuckle at my use of the charted 2.5 knots of current that was actually 3.5knots. Sailing at 5-6knots that tidal stream made a huge difference.

Jenny had a big smile on her face as we each battled Darwin's big tide.

Fighting our way back to the pontoon was fun with the tide and the wind eased. We were making 1.5 knots over the ground while the log showed us sailing at 4.5 through the water.

The action at the chart table.

Click here to see these photos in full on Picasa

New Autopilot for the boat

The dry season is getting closer so Sandy and I are starting to get the boat ready for a new season of sailing. I went out and bought a new Autopilot (Raymarine ST1000+) so we dont have to hand steer all the time. For those that dont know, steering a boat is fun for about 10 minutes :)

Will be fitting it this weekend.